60 kilometres from the South China Sea, this city in Borneo provides a variety of traditional cuisines.
Borneo, the third largest island in the world after Greenland and New Guinea, was ruled by the Sultan of Brunei till the 18th century. By the time colonisation ended, the territory of Brunei had shrunk to a speck. The remaining island was split between Indonesia's Kalimantan State and Malavsia's Sabah and Sarawak States, with Sibu falling under the latter. Scoot, a subsidiary of Singapore Airlines, now flies to Sibu from the Asian financial hub. Its inaugural flight took off on June 5. The budget carrier flies nonstop thrice weekly from the Lion City to Sibu. London, Paris, and Bangkok are tourist spots that double up as capital cities and are on most people's checklists, for they grant them one of the critical takebacks of holiday bragging rights. But look beyond the horizon of capitals. Crowds diminish, commodities are cheaper, and curated programmes give way to authentic experiences. In Malaysia's case, bustling Kuala Lumpur may rank as the capital and draw most tourists, but it could be more rewarding to look across the South China Sea to the city of Sibu set on Borneo Island.
Borneo, the third largest island in the world after Greenland and New Guinea, was ruled by the Sultan of Brunei till the 18th century. By the time colonisation ended, the territory of Brunei had shrunk to a speck and the rest of the island was split between Indonesia's Kalimantan State and Malaysia Sabha and Sarawak States, with Sibu falling under the latter. Scoot, a subsidiary of Singapore Airlines, now flies to Sibu from the Asian financial hub. Its inaugural flight took off on June 5. The budget carrier flies nonstop thrice weekly from the Lion City to Sibu. Step outside Sibu Airport and a sense of deja vu guess the visitor? Across the road stands a patch of green that harks back to the verdant landscapes of many South Indian states.
As a tropical region, Sarawak is replete with rainforests, and Sibu's topography is no different. The similarities are far outnumbered by differences, though; population density is lower, leaving people and buildings few. Roads dotted with large pickup vehicles and small-capacity scooters are piled by laid-back motorists who have no qualms about stopping at red lights, and honking is seldom heard. Business establishments welcome customers with dedicated open parking spaces reminiscent of the ones seen in Hollywood movies. Sarawak, Malaysia's largest State, is dominated by ethnic tribes and Malays. Sibu, with its strong Fuzhou presence, people who migrated from China looking for work are outliers. The cuisine, however, is a mix of everything. Laksa, a noodle soup with meat and coconut milk, traces its roots back to China, while Midin, a jungle fern cooked in fish broth, is a native of Sarawak. Interestingly, Sibu shares culinary traditions with India, too. On a visit to one of the longhouses, a building on stilts that stretches to the back where the native Iban population lives, visitors are greeted with welcome snacks that are essentially Tamil Nadu paniyaaram and Kerala's achappam.
Sightseeing opportunities in Sibu include boating along the Rajang River and strolling through the night market. Here, everything from cooked meat and dumplings to fresh-cut fruits and alcohol is sold. However, those wanting to explore their culinary skills should head towards the Sibu Central Market to buy raw meat and vegetables during the day. Mee sua, a thin wheat noodle, is also part of Sibu's tradition. The city is home to a small group of people who have been employed in the business of handmade noodles for generations. A visit to one such enterprise offers a glimpse of what goes into making noodles by hand. The transformation of a pile of dough into a thin strand of noodles is fascinating to behold. The city is home to this and much more. If losing oneself is not a priority and the joy of discovering something takes procedure, Sibu is a haven for such souls.
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